Another incredible river that drains into James Bay. Beginning in Mattice the first several days on the river feature roaring rapids as it cuts through the Canadian shield, until it reaches the lowlands where it becomes subdued and meanders, the rapids lessening in intensity.
Start: Mattice
End: Moosonee
Distance and days: 310km over 12 days
The incredible Thunderhouse Falls is a place that can’t help but stop you in your tracks for hours to sit in awe at the power of the river. Crashing through a series of drops and a canyon like section of rock, in high water it’s a terrifying torrent, in lower water it looks almost peaceful. The river proceeds apace for the next 8 kilometres, raging through Hell’s gate which forces all but the best paddlers onto land for the longest portage on this route. One year portaging around Stone Rapids and Hell’s Gate our group encountered a vicious thunderstorm that ripped overhead while we were on the trail. The tree tops were alive, whipping around in the wind and the sky turned black and pummelled us with rain. It was incredible! (I love a good storm) though not everyone was as pleased with the weather as I was.
Long rapids after the portage is perhaps the most challenging because there is no convenient way to scout it from shore - so canoe trippers must trust to their skill and instinct and make manoeuvres as they navigate the lengths rapid. Luckily there’s nothing too tricky to navigate, but of all the places to pin a boat on the river, this is it. After that the river widens and meanders, and most of the remaining rapids are spread out across its length. Sailing canoe-rafts using a tarp has been a highlight on this section of the river when the wind is in favour.
The river holds many secrets, and has been traveled for thousands of years. While traveling the length of this waterway its easy to slip into a state of wonder, captivated by the sense that there is more to this river than meets the eye and that paddling it once will give just the merest glimpse of all that lies beneath the surface.
